The mist from Wasdale Head chased us up the valley as we climbed towards Black Sail pass, together with the drizzle. First time in a week to don our waterproofs – probably pretty unheard of in the Lakes. We sense that this is more ‘real’, The Lakes being formed by rain somewhere. Otherwise it would be The Dry Patches. The higher peaks disappeared covered by clouds and mist as we scrambled down into Ennerdale.

Black Sail Hut is a pretty amazing YHA place, miles away from the beaten track. And closed at present cos of covid. Thanks virus.

The woods shown on the map have been chopped down – cropping or from ash or larch disease? Loved the sound of the cuckoo – (haven’t heard any down in Hampshire ) was drowned by the sound of chainsaws. Up and over Scarth Gap Pass and into Buttermere valley. Met a chap from Essex who’s been wild camping for the past week and now considering a change of life and moving up into the hills. Maybe the pandemic has focused peoples minds to follow different paths.

Into Keswick for the night – best B and B so far – West View. Everything works – yeh!

Espresso Martini time.