This blog is proving to be increasingly difficult. So many ‘things’ keep happening and so many fabulous wilelife experiences. It makes it hard to cull the photos. There are loads more which, if forced, I will present to you, if you struggle with sleep.
So many elephants. And some are so young
Etosha is just glorious. And King Nehale lodge is a total oasis in the desert. Elephants, lions, zebras, giraffe, so many things to look at. Well, once we managed to actually get into the park. The local staff into the park are generally grim. Sometimes actually friendly but most seem to have gone onto the “How to be unhelpful, unfriendly and an awful advert for Namibia’ course. And passed with distinction. Long story but basically we ‘Owed £15 to an office 100km away. We tried to pay locally the next day but we were refused, suggesting we might ‘run away’ without paying. We suggested leaving a £50 cash deposit, ie much more than the figure owed. This was rejected, as ‘We do not deal with cash’. We also suggested phoning the office and doing the transaction over the phone. “We can not do that” But you take credit cards? “Yes”. But not over the phone? “No”…..why? “We can’t tell you” !! Ok. So, for £15 we left 2 passports!! Or, stay in the park and pay for a grim hotel, with all our stuff outside the park, in a really nice hotel! Hey ho.
Our ‘really nice hotel’. Better in the flesh!Etosha panLook who’s opening the gate – risking life and limb
Etosha is huge and the bush is so green that it is hard to see all the animals that are there. But when you do see them, fab!
White rhinos, only two left in the Onguma private reserve – 2 boys, at that. (if they do manage to introduce a female one male will probably kill the other.) And we managed to get so close!
Spoonbills…
And my fave photo so far…
This image was seen in Onguma, just outside Etosha. Agreed that this was the best place on our trip. But gosh it’s close. The worst was really good! I would go back to any in a heartbeat.
Back to Hakusembe, but this time a much nicer room. The people are great and there is lots of wildlife around. Afrivan Eagle owl stood out. Food great but didn’t do any cruises. We have been spoilt with river cruises…
Baby…And Mum watching..On the Kovango River, with wine..
We left the excellent but slightly ‘corporate’ Chobe River camp for Ndhovu safari lodge, on the banks of the Kavango River. Previously the Okavango River, but the ‘O’ has been scribbled out on the signs. Honest. The journey was flat and the road had several thatch villages all along, very different to the rest of Namibia. We feel that ‘The Western Hand’ seems not to have touched this part of Namibia. And it feels better for it.
Linda driving…and a following stormTypical village
Ndhovu is just glorious. Small, friendly and we have a floating room on the river. Literally, 10 yards away from rumbling hippos. Just fab. We are greeted by Peter, White Namibian who is super friendly, and, we later find out, really enjoys singing to his guests. Hmmm. We enjoyed it!
Over the riverJust by our houseboat
Ndhovu is fab. We had a drive into Bwabwata National Park in the quest of Sable, which we see but do not photo, grrr. But the driving is glorious, maybe excepting the ruins of army bases during the Namibian war of Independence, and you can almost feel the dead. Not helped by signs to a cemetry. But the park is now secure and recovering.
WaterbuckReedbuck
An early game drive lasting 3 1/2 hrs, when they waited for an hour for our return to serve us bacon and eggs. Huge thanks.
But the key memory is the view from the floating room. Just fab.
Our view at sunrise3 hippos behind us!
Bwabwata national park is a must visit. We were the only car in there, but apparently there is a ‘restaurant’ and the sign says ‘open’. But it probably hasn’t opened for months!
Last day on the Chobe River and what a place. These are just a few of the birds and stuff. We had a walk through the bush – can easily get lost. And we are never sure exactly what we are treading on! As ever, our guide helped!
Cardinal WoodpeckerLilac breasted rollerRoller in flight
A few things we have noticed. For example, many of the birds have religious names, or rather their English names reflect the English religions: Red Bishop, Cardinal Woodpecker and others. Another interesting thing is the breeding plumage for many of the birds are spectacular. But generally it is the Male that looks fab, not like humans!
An example is the red bishop. Outside breeding a fairly non descript brown bird – they wouldn’t say that! – but in breeding: wow!
Red Bishop, all puffed up to attract a female…
Red bishop puffed up to attract a female. Not sure what then happens…
The same bird before seeing a girl!
Also a few photos of humans>>>
And finally, a misty morning, super rare in these parts!
Gosh, it’s all going too fast. Jackalberry is great. But we have to say goodbye, it’s been fab. A bumpy/slippy/ muddy 20Km drive out through the national park and the 4×4 was put to good use, again. A ‘quick’ 250km on tarmac to Chobe River Camp. Only 4km off road this time but greeted by our guide so we could folow him – just as well as the route went all over the place.
Chobe river camp in on the, er, Chobe River. Or rather it is, but the river is a bit low at present, despite the ‘wet season’. What they really mean is ‘wet’ is before the ‘high river’ by about 3 months.And the ele’s leave before it is wet. So, only a few ele’s, minimal water, but still awsome other stuff. The birds are in full ‘I look gorgeous’ breeding display, and the river still has a few hippos and crocks. But at present the birds win.
Hastings, our guide, is fab and we met Ruth, a young lady here by herself. It was a privelige to chat with her, interesting, full of life, and opinions. Inspirational in her choice of life, working hard and high ambitions. We also encountered a much less fun chap, drunk, loud and obnoxious. Glad he was banished, but it took too long.
But still lots of 4 legged animals. And a few 2 legged ones.
We have been here a day now, and are getting used to it used to the heat, the humidity and ‘the way of things’. Because it is just us, we have the whole team asking what we would like to do, and when. Meals are our anchor. The choice is limited, generally ‘would you like… or not?”! Dinner has a choice of 2 main courses but nothing else. The last day was down to one choice. BUT, we are miles and miles away from anywhere, the camp runs on solar, and there is minimal power, no aircon, minimal wifi etc etc. DEspite this the team produce lovely food very well presented and everyone has a cheerful smile. A ‘thank you’ from us always produces a genuine ‘ You are welcome’ from all the staff.
A special shout ot to Justin. Great guide, always friendly and managed to find just what we had asked for, with respect to the animals. Such as using a red light for night spotting, so much kinder on the animals.
Our river “cruise” was amazing. Laden up with bug spray we saw so much. Kingfishers. Hippo’s and er, more hippos. A bubble in the water hid a huge hippo! And they are loud. In the water they ‘own’ it. Out of water, less so. Underneath the serene view is real hard life.
Malachite Kingfisher. Titchy.African fish Eagle. Bee eater.
A few hippo photos. But to get the real feel I suggest seeing them. Awsome. Huge. And maybe 30 in agroup. And 10 groups. A lot of hippos. And a lot of bad tempered animals all sharing a small space. I mean hippo’s , not humans.
I can see you….and I’m huge…be warned!Look, I have big teeth. Be scared… very scared.
And loads of bee eaters. Glorious little birds. So colourful.
Our river cruise was awsome. And a final fling was the sunset. Not a sunset, the sunset. No words…except ‘yes please’ to ‘Would you like a chilled beer?’
Not sure what to expect next…but it will be glorious. We just know…
Wow. And again WOW!! Just 4 ‘tents’ in the Nkasa Rupara National Park, miles from anywhere. Jackalberry Tented Camp isn’t ‘luxury’, but it is so close! We are the only people here, which is sad for the staff. The drive is proper 4×4, sandy, wet, mud. And we were very glad we were following Justin our guide. So many bends, turns, bogs. We would have been lost! Just the drive to the camp is a safari in its own right. Glad the car is good. It was suggested that we left the car in the nearest ‘town’, Sangwali but Justin reconed we could do it! Phew. We could!!
We started with a night drive, not seeing as much as in Otijwa Eagles rest, but the peace, and actually the noise of the night, is glorious. Hippo making ‘bowel’ noises and munching on grass, loads of frogs but most memorably the roar of Lions. And don’t forget the smells! Wild sage mixed in with various poos! We spend 2 1/2 hours tracking the lions. We heard them loads. We saw their paw prints. But we didn’t see them. No luck. But that was to change tomorrow…
African Fish EagleWild cat. Not a tame one. Honest.Spotted hyenaMale red Lechwe
The first morning of our time in Jackalberry. 5.30 start for coffee and the game drive starts at 5.50, ish. It is cool, maybe 17-18 c and refreshing. Dawn is just breaking. Justin our guide is keen and happy. We hear lions, again. But more frustration. Loads of birds, Impala, Kudu and warthog. Still no lions. But then: around a corner…an amazing lion. Yea.
And here are some of the antelope we have seen. The whole place is just teeming with life.
Our trip via Germany was ‘fine’. ie cramped, frustrating and generally grim. Hey ho. The fun of flying today. BUT: we got here! (Namibia!) in the morning and managed to get through the scrum which is called customs. Prepurchase of the visa was great. Probably saved 2-3 hours. And the folk at ATI were there to meet us. All good!
We picked up our Toyota Hilux, 14K miles on the clock and new tyres, yea! Many thanks to all the team at ATI holidays based in Windhoek, who booked our trip. So far everthing is just so smooth! The support had been great, thanks Monica! And a shout out to John Spence who put us in touch.
We drove to Otijwa Eagles rest 200km north of Windhoek, via a supermarket for a beer or two. Maybe 3. Easy tarmack road, with the occasional police stop. But we so look like tourists all is fine. We arrived in good time at Eagles rest, and decided on the night drive. Just Glorious. 20.30 til 23.00, which was extraordinary:
Bat eraed Fox. Nice and not at all a pest.
African Giant Owl. Bat Eared Fox.
Aardvark, super rareWhite faced owl.
But the most exciting, by ten million percent was:
Female leopardand her cub, one of 2.
What a few hours. The guides were so happy. One hadn’t seen a leopard for over a year. The other twice in 2025. How lucky!? And this was our first night!
We did meet the owner of one of Namibias few wineries, Tamara Boshoff, and even sampled some of the wine. Yummy! She is Namibian with an Afrikaans husband. And also a Russian intern. Very multi!
The next day we decided to do a 6:30 am MTB ‘safari’ which I thight would be a gentle trip around a park. From a cycle it was, but from an animals POV, amazing.
LInda smaller than a termite nest.Rhino tracks. Honestly, because at the end of them was a, er, rhino!
We saw rhino, giraffe, ostrich and loads of great deer based stuff – bambi type things!
And then our first Rhino. On a MTB. A bit ‘blimey’! Hope they think we are nice!
Day 3 To Hakusembe River Lodge.
On our way up to the Zambezi strip we stop at Hakusembe Lodge, ust for one night. But will return for another night in 9 days time.
The drive to Hakusembe, 500 Km mainly on tarmac roads, was OK. Lots of ‘not much’ but when you look there are loads of small towns, people just ‘hanging’ and big farms. But it gives you the idea of how big Namibia is. We went via the biggest known metiorite in the world, the Hoba meteorite. Maybe 30Km of dirt road, but worth it. Odd that such a lump of iron and nickel fell onto the Earth maybe 80,000 years ago, and did’nt do much damage. And you can walk on it! It makes a very odd metalic sound when you speak on it, and its a bit like a bell when you knock it. And it feels cool. We were the only ones there.
Hoba Meteorite
One big meteorite!
Once we arrived in Hakusembe, we saw the mighty Okavango river for the first time. We were warned that our phones would randomly go from our ‘real time’ to an hour behind, because on the northern bank of the Okavango is Angola, and their time is an hour behind Namibia. Odd. And the river is known as the Kavango in Namibia.
Hakusembe was only a ‘stop over’ but great. On our trip so far most other guests have been either German or Afrikaaners. A smattering of other countries but as yet no English. Ah well.
Early start for Jackalberry tomorrow.
Day 4 Jackalberry Lodge,
Wow. Just 4 ‘tents’ in the Nkasa Rupara National Park, miles from anywhere. Jackalberry Tented Camp isn’t ‘luxury’, but it is so close! We are the only people here, which is sad for the staff. The drive is proper 4×4, sandy, wet, mud. And we were very glad we were following Justin our guide. So many bends, turns, bogs. We would have been lost! JUst the drive to the camp is a safari in its own right. Glad the car is good. It was suggested that we left the car in the nearest ‘town’, Sangwali but Justin reconed we could do it! Phew. We could!!
We started with a night drive, not seeing as much as in Otijwa Eagles rest, but the peace, and actually the noise of the night, is glorious. Hippo making ‘bowel’ noises and munching on grass, loads of frogs but most memorably the roar of Lions. And don’t forget the smells! Wild sage mixed in with various poos! We spend 2 1/2 hours tracking the lions. We heard them loads. We saw their paw prints. But we didn’t see them. But no luck. But that was to change tomorrow…
African Fish EagleWild cat. Not a tame one. Honest.Spotted hyenaPriritBatis on her nestCrimson breasted Shrike
Day 5-6 Jackalberry Lodge
The first morning of our time in Jackalberry. 5.30 start for coffee and the game drive starts at 5.50, ish. It is cool, maybe 17-18 c and refreshing. Dawn is just breaking. Justin our guide is keen and happy. We hear lions, again. But more frustration. Loads of birds, Impala, Kudu and warthog. Still no lions. But then: around a corner…
Male lion in the morning sunshine.
The most beautiful male, hunting and trying to find his mates. We just watch and ponder…
Our intended route for the trip to The Zambezi Strip, previously known as The Caprivi strip. Interesting history. It will be hot, wet but full of wildlife. Hopefully. But also hopefully no Malaria, Dengue or other ‘exotic’ diseases. We will see!
We are in Heathrow, T2, waiting for our flight to Munich, then to Windhoek. Can’t wait!
Not the most reassuring noticeOur bed…Mushara Outpost. So lovelyImelda, our guide for one morning.. Fab.Only us in the vanSo many moths. They last a few days, then over for another year. Thank goodness..Mushara Outpost. Yum YumFab couple we met in Etosha. Living 8/12 in their Zebra.Exciting…Actually, the fire is great!The Boss, HelenaKicky buggers..Kori Bustard. Rare, ish. But not in EtoshaThirsty workSpotted Hyena, just look a bit evilBlack and whiteLife is always better when you see a griaffeRed HartebeestDaddy Hartebeest100’s of vultures on a giraffe…Pumbaa!Watching them eat and drink..Baby hyena are actually cute!2 hiours to get this shot of a Africal Paradise Flycatcher.Goodbye Etosha.
Gosh, what a trip.
Namibia has given us so much. Sadn dunes, salt pans, Elephant, lions, great people, and some weather. Superb.
We suggest anyone with an adventurous spirit, even if not very, should come to Namibia.
Paul and Linda Cycle 