A day of elephants and travel

IMG_3080

Last drink with the group.

IMG_3119

Elephant on the road

IMG_3160

Sooo close

P1060476

Elephant orphanage, but plan to get back into the wild.

P1100277

Buffalo in the water, hence their name

P1100290

Showing off their ability to fly.

P1100305

Looking at us, are we food? Crested Hawk-eagle.

P1100301

Blue tailed bee eater.

P1100330

About a 1 month old baby with sister and mum. Unbelievably cute.

P1100311

We woz here.

P1060485

Sunset at Udawalawa National Park.

P1100248

Working beach, working boat.

P1100251

Do I have to, Mummy?

07:30 am start, to drop Bill and Janice at airport for their return home to a freezing Glasgow.  Hope it went well.  Dropped our bike bags and surplus kit at a hotel closer to the airport,  discovering how little we really need to carry in our panniers, managing to shed a fair bit of weight.  Marcus, very kindly, drove us down to Udawalawa National Park for a jeep safari.  Best place to see elephants, particularly this time of year as there is plenty of fresh grass.  We weren’t disappointed.  To see a one-month old feeding from his mum, right in front of us was extraordinary.  We dropped in to the elephant orphanage where they currently are taking care of some 35 youngsters with regular top ups of milk.  Hopefully, they will be re-introduced into the park when they are more mature and can feed themselves.

An onward drive down to Yala National Park, much bigger at some 66,000 hectares for a 5:00 am start tomorrow. Then back onto the bikes. We are missing them.

Around Trinco

P1100178

Our view before cycling, a monsoon.

IMG_3045

Hope it doesn’t happen again, they are not ready.

P1100184

Protected species, wandering around the fish markets.

P1100195

Different jubilee. Different Queen. Faded now.

IMG_3031

Evening stroll

IMG_3029

Too much for one person? No.

P1100245

Our group. L to R, Ganesh, Bill, Janice, Paul, Suranga, Linda, Paul, Marcus. 27/11/2015.

Still hot but wetter.  Beaches beautiful with light touch tourism.  Trinco harbour escaped the Tsunami due to its deep waters, not so the surrounding areas where 35,000 people lost their lives.  So much history here with invasions by the Dutch, Portuguese, Indians, British and a few skirmishes with Burma and yet the Sri Lankans remain friendly.

Last day with the group.  Back to Colombo tomorrow and the start of our 2 week unguided adventure.  A little disconcerting.

To Trincomalee, Thanksgiving.

P1100160

Leaving our great hotel,Giman Free Resort. Rural, lovely food and great rooms. Huge bathroom. Friendly folk.

IMG_1376

Fuel for the cookers. No diesel needed

P1100170

Maybe the reason we were the only ones in the hotel? Not passable by anything other than 4×4. Or feet.

IMG_3001

Girls and boys wear very smart uniforms, and take their education seriously. Happy the country is at peace. At last.

IMG_2998

Most of the ladies are very elegant and shade themselves as much as possible. Hindu, Muslim, Christians and Buddhists live side by side.

IMG_3008

Lunch. Tasty and better than it looks.

IMG_3002

Its customary to use any loo when passing. Just knock on the door and ask (Linda would feel happier using a bush. Except for the snakes.) The picture does not include the smell.

IMG_3006

Drying fish. Again, the smell…

IMG_3007

Fish retail outlet. Again, the smell.

IMG_3025

Cows add something on the beach

IMG_3015

End of day beer. 100k!

Screen Shot 2015-11-26 at 18.32.48

Our 100k route. East coast Sri Lanka.

Later than anticipated start to our 100km cycle after a full curry meal served together with omlettes and fresh fruit.  Already high 20’s getting on the bikes.  We have been so well looked after by Marcus, Suranga and Ganesh, who anticipate our every need with refreshment stops.  How will we cope next week on our own?

Head wind all the way up the coast but wonderful views of the lagoons and the plains (still trying to spot a rogue elephant).  The thought of a chilled beer at the end keeps us going.  Now for that beer.

 

 

 

 

 

To Pasikuda Bay, Wed 25th Nov

P1090980

Hotel, Polonnaruwa.

IMG_1372

Rs is 200/£. ie red rice 30p/kg. Great shop.

IMG_2933

Our transport to bird island. 8 am.

P1100092

Egret flying peacefully. In fact may be jolly hungry.

P1100099

Cormorant and crow. On the nest, and the crow wants his breakfast egg.

P1100088

Ibis, landing. Noisy birds.

IMG_2963

Hard to believe this reservoir will drain completely in the dry season, every year.

IMG_1373

King coconut, natural electrolytes. Marcus chops the tops off with his machete.

P1100131

And we think we’re carrying a full load.

IMG_2981

Lunch in Pasikuda, a muslim town. Lucky to get any food as full moon bank holiday. Cling film on plates saves washing.

IMG_2986

Chefs preparations.

P1060469

Overlooking Bay of Bengal. Just recovering from the Tsunami.

P1100146

Spot the pro cycling tan lines.

Marcus arranged a trip to bird island on the reservoir.  Huge numbers of nesting birds, including egrets, ibis, various herons, cormorants and storks.  Felt guilty stepping onto the island as it disturbed the birds.  However, they quickly settled.

Then to the bikes and a flat ride heading east into a head wind, average 30c temp.  The area is getting drier with lots of cacti and skinny cows and goats.

Needed a lift in a truck down to the hotel as the road was too rutted for Marcus’ van.  USA Paul was nearly sent flying out the back.

Hotel seems best so far, on the beach with no-one else around.

King Country

Scary. Climbing up Sigiriya rock.

Scary. Climbing up Sigiriya rock.

UNESCO world heritage site – an enormous granite outcrop first used by prehistoric man in the natural caves. Then used by Buddhist monks. How they received their food is mind boggling.  An ancient king had the vision after killing his father to build a fortress kingdom on top of the rock, surrounded by a moat filled with crocodiles and spikes. Mainly to try and appease the guilt, maybe. Or maybe a crazed power hungry psychopath. Either way the engineering is phenomenal – a system of water collection in vast tanks on the arid dry plains, fed the people and kept him in power. Just.

 

 

 

1500 year old art.

1500 year old art.

Some very erotic art painted in the 3rd to 5th century AD, high up on the walls of the rock rediscovered in the 1800’s. They has feelings, and urges.

Mirror wall, Sigiriya

Mirror wall, Sigiriya

Knuckles range

Knuckles range

A tough climb of 200m basically straight up to the top of the citadel. Worth the reward for the most amazing views across the plains; currently green at the start of the wet season.

Sri Lankan health and safety

Sri Lankan health and safety. Thanks for the tip.

Pre historic home. No bike shed.

Pre historic home. No bike shed.

Macaque monkeys

Macaque monkeys

Lunch, yummy

Lunch, yummy

We could get used to this. Suranga and Ganash (Mr T) hard at work. Thanks chaps

We could get used to this. Suranga and Ganash (Mr T) hard at work. Thanks chaps

Running water

Running water

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Curry lunch, always delicious. Thunder, lightning and such heavy rain made such a noise. Decided on a long lunch before heading back to Dambulla. And it stopped raining, yea.  A lovely back road through the villages and paddy fields.  Big fights between the locals and elephants during the dry season.  As usual, not enough funding to maintain electric fences and elephants poisoned or shot if they encroach into the hard worked fields.

 

Egrets, not seagulls. Still hard work.

Egrets, not seagulls. Still hard work.

Great rice fields

Great rice fields

Fishmonger - only Tilapia today. And every day.

Fishmonger – only Tilapia today. And every day.

Tamarind Gardens to Dambulla. Sun 22nd November

LInda and our hostess Ayesha saying goodbye.

Linda and our hostess Ayesha saying goodbye.

 

Breakfast at 6:30am to get an early start on the bikes before the heat and the traffic.  Bright sunshine and already 26c.  Cycled past young Hindu girls heading for the temple, dressed so smarty in bright yellow saffron sari’s.  Sad that we  ran out of time and didn’t get to explore more of the village, the dolomite quarry and the craft workers. We hope to come back, great place.

 

The team: Paul from Silicon Valley, Suranga our cycling guide, Linda, Paul, Janice and Bill from Glasgow.

The team: Paul from Silicon Valley, Suranga our cycling guide, Linda, Paul, Janice and Bill from Glasgow.

 

Crazy driving, crazy roads

Crazy driving, crazy road

Workers in rice fields

Workers in rice fields

Paul experiencing some Ayurveda treatment at the spice and herb garden.

Paul experiencing some Ayurveda treatment at the spice and herb garden.

Great tree

Great tree

 

Our group, plus Marcus, our main guide and Dinesh, Tata driver and Mr T lookalike.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cycling on the roads is fun, exhilarating  and a challenge. You have to keep listening and watching, both in front and behind you. Blue private buses are crazy, fast and on a mission: to get to wherever they need to by… a few minutes ago. Roads mainly tarmac, but quite a lot of mud at times. Sadly a dog met his end by the side of a road today.

 

Cycling through busy villages, and workers in paddy fields. They don’t know it’s Sunday.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Actually rather relaxing. Saw loads of spices growing, cinnamon, cardamom, turmeric, ginger, nutmeg, cocoa, coffee and an interesting plant called cocaine.

Neck and shoulder massage - spot the cyclist.

Neck and shoulder massage – spot the cyclist.

P1090814

Entrance to Golden Temple

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Home of the highest Buddha in Sri Lanka.

And great caves with loads of Buddas, dating back over 500 years. Some of the caves are over 2,000 years old, each one filled with various Buddahs, created by kings to show their spirituality. Not so sure. Buddha isn’t a God, but seems to be treated like one by some.

The incumbent Buddha carved into the granite cave

The recumbent Buddha carved into the granite cave

The feet of Buddha

The feet of Buddha

Buddha statues carved out of brick and clay.

Buddha statues carved out of brick and clay.

 

Sundown over Matale plains - centre of Sri Lanka.

Sundown over Matale plains – centre of Sri Lanka.

This recumbent Buddha is carved out of the rock itself. Still some of the gold leaf can be seen. Impressive.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lovely end to the day.

Now to food.

 

Around Tamarind Gardens

John, our host

John, our host

Breakfast: milk rice, tuna curry and fresh fruit – delicious

One of John and Ayesha precious babies

One of John and Ayesha precious babies

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

John and Ayesha our hosts bought 10 acres in Digana as a development project to help the local villagers whose lives are third world, and change all their lives. They developed Tamarind Gardens.  The area experiences drought for 7 months of the year and the government does not supply continuous water even though it charges for it.  John and Ayesha, in collaboration with Walker Tours, a Sri Lanka based company provide an authentic opportunity for visitors to the area to experience life in rural Sri Lanka.  Visitors are able to assist with projects, depending on their length of stay, eg, build a chicken coop, hook up a water tank, anything and everything.  They have established a small Jersey herd and John is proud of his neufchatel style cheese and clotted cream.  He is able to sell these to specialist organic shops in Colombo where there is high demand. We tasted the clotted cream, with home made scones. Oh Gosh! Almost as good as Cornish clotted cream. (In fact better, but we can’t say that). We were both really taken by the whole concept, our hosts and the magical spirit of the place.

Taking the Jersey milk to market

Taking the Jersey milk to market

Handmade incense sticks

Handmade incense sticks

Paul under Ficus tree; the species under which Buddha meditated.

Paul under Ficus tree; the species under which Buddha meditated.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The cabins overlook Victoria reservoir which is fished by the local villagers.  We had a paddle out up to the dam in one of the fisherman’s canoes – cool breezes across the water and totally peaceful.  At certain times of the year the elephants do come across from the opposite hillside to graze.  They are “encouraged” by the use of firecrackers not to swim across to the village.

View from our cabin

View from our cabin, early morning

 

Paddling across the Victoria reservoir

Paddling across the Victoria reservoir

The hole left by Linda's foot (cow poo).

The hole left by Linda’s foot (cow poo).

John has seen a Russell’s viper by his cowshed which his manager was swift to dispatch.  The viper is responsible for the highest number of human deaths….. (not  a common  species in this area)

 

 

 

IMG_2679

Cultural experience in Kandy

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cultural experience in Kandy, Ves dancers. Highly regarded and loads of symbolic dancing. Some of it came over more like a circus, until the symbolism was explained by Marcus, our guide and chauffeur.

IMG_2694

Supper – freshwater lobster from the reservoir. £2 for them both.

 

Aga, eat your heart out

Making string hoppers.

Making string hoppers.

Supper cooked on a wood fire range, helped, or rather not helped by Paul, making string hoppers. They are rice flour and water, squirted onto a reed dish and then steamed. Yummy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

To Tamarind Gardens

Our great guide, Marcus

Our great guide, Marcus

 

 

Senani Hotel, Kandy

Senani Hotel, Kandy

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Into Kandy centre, cultural capital and a visit to the Temple of the Tooth Relic, believed to be the tooth of Buddha; an exciting tuk tuk ride around Kandy, quick lunch then on bikes through busy traffic to Digana (another tuk tuk accident on the way)

Post card of Kandy

Post card of Kandy

School children in Kandy

School children in Kandy

Forest Fowl, national emblem of Sri Lanka

Forest Fowl, national emblem of Sri Lanka

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The tooth itself is held within 7 gold caskets, each one having a separate key, each key is held by a different person for security.

Ceremonial entrance to the Stupa

Ceremonial entrance to the maligawa.

Gold casket of the tooth relic

Gold casket of the tooth relic

Fresco in the Temple of the Tooth Relic

Fresco in the Temple of the Tooth Relic

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Elephants were very important in  ceremonies and still are today.  A parade is held annually lasting 10 days.  Raja, a tusker was the lead processional elephant for 22 years and became famous in his own right.  His body is displayed in the complex.

Bhudda

Bhudda

 

 

Offerings of sweet smelling flowers are brought to the temple; a symbol of the sweetess of life but its temporary nature.

Monks, and Paul

Monks, and Paul

Lotus flower offerings

Lotus flower offerings

Temple dogs

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To Kandy

Stamford Star Hotel, Nuwara Eliya

Stamford Star Hotel, Nuwara Eliya

 

Odd to walk out of the hotel and across the road is a racecourse and a football pitch – we could see why this is called Little England.  Victorian architecture and lots of dead Scottish people in the Anglican church graveyard.  Echoes of bygone colonialism, doesn’t sit comfortably today.

Rain doesn't stop picking

Rain doesn’t stop picking

 

P1060314

Making tea

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We now know all about making tea.  Never heard of silver tips and golden tips.  A type of tea, not a sexual game.

Another cup of tea, another piece of chocolate cake

Another cup of tea, another piece of chocolate cake

LInda having fun

Linda having fun

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Start of ride a 15km freewheel down 700m, paid the price with a long hot sticky climb  back up the mountain.  Glorious sunshine followed in the blink of an eye with the heaviest rain ever.  After 7 hours in the saddle, lunch was sorely missed, dates and bananas sufficed.

Nice leech

Nice leech

 

 

 

 

Risky business taking a pee by the side of the road – leeches everywhere.  30 seconds is plenty of time for them to attach.  This one came back to the hotel in a sock!

View from the bike

View from the bike

 

 

 

 

 

This is Hill Country.