Around Tamarind Gardens

John, our host

John, our host

Breakfast: milk rice, tuna curry and fresh fruit – delicious

One of John and Ayesha precious babies

One of John and Ayesha precious babies

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

John and Ayesha our hosts bought 10 acres in Digana as a development project to help the local villagers whose lives are third world, and change all their lives. They developed Tamarind Gardens.  The area experiences drought for 7 months of the year and the government does not supply continuous water even though it charges for it.  John and Ayesha, in collaboration with Walker Tours, a Sri Lanka based company provide an authentic opportunity for visitors to the area to experience life in rural Sri Lanka.  Visitors are able to assist with projects, depending on their length of stay, eg, build a chicken coop, hook up a water tank, anything and everything.  They have established a small Jersey herd and John is proud of his neufchatel style cheese and clotted cream.  He is able to sell these to specialist organic shops in Colombo where there is high demand. We tasted the clotted cream, with home made scones. Oh Gosh! Almost as good as Cornish clotted cream. (In fact better, but we can’t say that). We were both really taken by the whole concept, our hosts and the magical spirit of the place.

Taking the Jersey milk to market

Taking the Jersey milk to market

Handmade incense sticks

Handmade incense sticks

Paul under Ficus tree; the species under which Buddha meditated.

Paul under Ficus tree; the species under which Buddha meditated.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The cabins overlook Victoria reservoir which is fished by the local villagers.  We had a paddle out up to the dam in one of the fisherman’s canoes – cool breezes across the water and totally peaceful.  At certain times of the year the elephants do come across from the opposite hillside to graze.  They are “encouraged” by the use of firecrackers not to swim across to the village.

View from our cabin

View from our cabin, early morning

 

Paddling across the Victoria reservoir

Paddling across the Victoria reservoir

The hole left by Linda's foot (cow poo).

The hole left by Linda’s foot (cow poo).

John has seen a Russell’s viper by his cowshed which his manager was swift to dispatch.  The viper is responsible for the highest number of human deaths….. (not  a common  species in this area)

 

 

 

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Cultural experience in Kandy

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cultural experience in Kandy, Ves dancers. Highly regarded and loads of symbolic dancing. Some of it came over more like a circus, until the symbolism was explained by Marcus, our guide and chauffeur.

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Supper – freshwater lobster from the reservoir. £2 for them both.

 

Aga, eat your heart out

Making string hoppers.

Making string hoppers.

Supper cooked on a wood fire range, helped, or rather not helped by Paul, making string hoppers. They are rice flour and water, squirted onto a reed dish and then steamed. Yummy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

To Tamarind Gardens

Our great guide, Marcus

Our great guide, Marcus

 

 

Senani Hotel, Kandy

Senani Hotel, Kandy

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Into Kandy centre, cultural capital and a visit to the Temple of the Tooth Relic, believed to be the tooth of Buddha; an exciting tuk tuk ride around Kandy, quick lunch then on bikes through busy traffic to Digana (another tuk tuk accident on the way)

Post card of Kandy

Post card of Kandy

School children in Kandy

School children in Kandy

Forest Fowl, national emblem of Sri Lanka

Forest Fowl, national emblem of Sri Lanka

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The tooth itself is held within 7 gold caskets, each one having a separate key, each key is held by a different person for security.

Ceremonial entrance to the Stupa

Ceremonial entrance to the maligawa.

Gold casket of the tooth relic

Gold casket of the tooth relic

Fresco in the Temple of the Tooth Relic

Fresco in the Temple of the Tooth Relic

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Elephants were very important in  ceremonies and still are today.  A parade is held annually lasting 10 days.  Raja, a tusker was the lead processional elephant for 22 years and became famous in his own right.  His body is displayed in the complex.

Bhudda

Bhudda

 

 

Offerings of sweet smelling flowers are brought to the temple; a symbol of the sweetess of life but its temporary nature.

Monks, and Paul

Monks, and Paul

Lotus flower offerings

Lotus flower offerings

Temple dogs

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To Kandy

Stamford Star Hotel, Nuwara Eliya

Stamford Star Hotel, Nuwara Eliya

 

Odd to walk out of the hotel and across the road is a racecourse and a football pitch – we could see why this is called Little England.  Victorian architecture and lots of dead Scottish people in the Anglican church graveyard.  Echoes of bygone colonialism, doesn’t sit comfortably today.

Rain doesn't stop picking

Rain doesn’t stop picking

 

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Making tea

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We now know all about making tea.  Never heard of silver tips and golden tips.  A type of tea, not a sexual game.

Another cup of tea, another piece of chocolate cake

Another cup of tea, another piece of chocolate cake

LInda having fun

Linda having fun

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Start of ride a 15km freewheel down 700m, paid the price with a long hot sticky climb  back up the mountain.  Glorious sunshine followed in the blink of an eye with the heaviest rain ever.  After 7 hours in the saddle, lunch was sorely missed, dates and bananas sufficed.

Nice leech

Nice leech

 

 

 

 

Risky business taking a pee by the side of the road – leeches everywhere.  30 seconds is plenty of time for them to attach.  This one came back to the hotel in a sock!

View from the bike

View from the bike

 

 

 

 

 

This is Hill Country.

To Nuwara Eliya from Hatton

Paul takes tea

Paul takes tea

 

Tamil Tea Picker

Tamil Tea Picker

An 8:00 am transfer up to Hatton and then onto our bikes.  Learning to recognise the different leaf colours to produce the different flavour teas.

Tea plantation in the Hill Country

Tea plantation in the Hill Country

 

Even Paul succumbed to taste some green tea (with a piece of chocolate cake).  He still doesn’t like tea.

These hillsides were untouched until the 17th century as the ruling kings forbade any settlements.   After slash and burn policy, Lipton and Co. with others turned up and introduced tea after the coffee plants failed due to disease.

Tea pickers homes

Tea pickers homes

 

 

 

 

The Tamils from southern India were brought down to Sri Lanka as the labour force to harvest the tea crop.  Initially, they were treated little better than slaves.  More recently conditions have improved for them and the tea plantation owners have started to  provide better education and welfare.

Schoolboys, 10 years old

Schoolboys, 10 years old

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Hindu Temple

 

Great Acacia tree

Great Acacia tree

 

 

Every single child we have seen has been really friendly and interested.  One even gave Paul a push up a steep part of the hill. Most just want to practice their English.  In school they are taught 3 languages; Tamil, Sengalese and English.

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Sundown in Nuwara Eliya

Another bloody waterfall

Another bloody waterfall

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A hot climb  1426m into the Hill Country with lots of switchbacks and unmade roads.  36c at the start and 15c at the end in Nuwara Eliya

Raft and Ramble

Day off cycling.

Kithulgala Heritage Rest House

Certainly not a luxury stay but, hey, had a ceiling fan and some of us hot water.  Location spectacular right on the banks of the river.

No, you won't get wet.

No, you won’t get wet.

 

 

 

 

 

Despite best intentions Linda, was persuaded to white water raft.

 

Raftless in the river

Raftless in the river

 

 

 

 

 

 

The rafting was huge fun, very exhilerating and yes, we were drenched but in 30 degree weather who cares?

 

 

Lunch, same as breakfast and supper.

 

 

 

Experiencing a delicious variety of curries.  Had spotted a small lorry with half a dozen huge tuna sticking out the back;  a favourite dish here often is tuna curry.

Acupuncturist’s car collection

 

 

 

 

Had lunch at the restaurant of some famous acupuncturist who bequeathed his extensive quirky collection of Rolls Royces and classic cars to his employees. And his house. Maybe Paul should retrain.

Who pays the ferryman?

Big yellow bamboo

Big yellow bamboo

 

 

 

Obviously not the variety of bamboo to plant in our shrubbery in Winchester.

Virgin rainforest.

Virgin rainforest.

Afternoon spent avoiding leeches in a bit of the last remaining virgin rainforest. Sadly failed on the leech front, but worth the sticky heat to see loads of plants and how villagers live. Needed a ferry to get over to it.

Leeches move so quickly, like slinkies, but more blood.

See separate page for flora /fauna.

First day cycling

First hotel, with pick up chance outside.

Fabulous first buffet with a vast selection of spicy curries – a particularly lovely dish of roasted banana flowers.  Hotel sat on the shore of the Indian Ocean. Windy, stormy night kept Paul awake (allegedly) whilst Linda slept soundly.

Buddha by boat

Monet would be very happy to paint here.

40 foot high Buddha.

Sri Lankan post box. Colonial influence?

Sri Lankan post box. Colonial influence?

 

Under construction

Under construction

 

Road conditions generally good but not on this stretch.  Welcome rain shower cooled us off a bit – 36.8 degrees in the sun and very humid.

Kingfisher on a post.

Kingfisher on a post.

Are there croc's?

Are there crocs?

Second hotel in Kitulgala.  Bit more basic and the river’s a great breeding ground for mosquitoes.  Can you spot the kingfisher?  Also spotted the rarer pied kingfisher.  Lots of egrets in the paddy fields and sitting on the cows.

Bit traumatised by the number of broken legged dogs on the sides of the road but they do appear to sleep in the road waiting to be run over.  Glad we’re up to date with our rabies jabs as some definitely friendlier than others..